“Resilience of the Urban Jungle”
The number of seeds we plant determines how much room we have for growth. This growth depends on factors that include, but are not limited to; pace, environment, and intention. Seeds can only grow if we foster the communities they are planted in. It is important to acknowledge those planted seeds that have impacted our communities and the ecosystem. Humans are all a part of the ecosystem, and as it evolves, so do we.
Everything we know in the 21st century, including Urbanism, was once just a concept. Art, including Fashion, is a big part of urban culture; aside from labor, it drives migration to places like London and New York. Millions subscribe to magazines like Harper’s Bazaar and W, but these publications are nothing without the voices that continue to pioneer culture.
When thinking about the theme of “Urban Jungle Meets Nature”, my mind jumps to Tupac’s poem “A Rose that Grew from Concrete”. This poetic oxymoron is a love letter to communities of people who have remained resilient in unjustified circumstances. When expected to fail, they proved nature’s law wrong. Ever heard of Daymond John? He and his friends started FUBU (For Us By Us), a now iconic, contemporary sportswear brand, which took off after rapper LL Cool J was seen wearing a grey FUBU hat in a GAP commercial in 1997. Daymond saw that the brand “Iceberg” was selling sweaters for $400-$500USD with characters black people could not relate to, so he decided to make sweaters with characters of his choosing for $80USD. This is a great example of doing something for your community yourself, instead of waiting around or hoping someone else does it for you. By paying attention to what the people wanted, Daymond rose to fame by growing his small brand into a multimillion-dollar company.
Many established brands still do not recognize the power of listening to their consumers and the importance of prioritizing diversity. Fashion as a concept has never been one-size-fits-all, and cultural representation is just as important as bodily representation. The first plus-sized model to be put on the cover of Vogue was Ashley Graham in 2017. However, Vogue's recent Fashion report on size inclusivity stated that only 0.8% of the looks presented in the "Big Four" fashion capitals of the world during FW/25 were plus size... out of the 8,763 looks presented, as reported by Vogue in their Business newsletter for SS25. There is a difference between performative DEI vs companies that lead with their mission statement in their practices. For most, the prerogative is just to keep you buying. I was given the chance to hear from @shilakenatelier on this topic, a designer on Midnight Runway’s Season 3 runway at The Penthouse, NYC. Shilaken stated, “There are so many different ways to be sustainable that there isn’t an excuse not to be. Just like in a relationship, you want something real, something that will last and that is authentic.” In more recent years, the quality of luxury fashion is comparable to fast fashion. However, local NYC Designers like Wenjüe Lu and Abacaki, who focus on slowness and tradition in their design process, are reclaiming and making a fashion space of their own. Successfully respecting and embracing their own processes is an act of rebellion in itself: doing their own thing.
The focus of the fashion industry has always been centered around capitalism, where non-creatives have more authority than creatives whilst benefiting from it most financially. Creatives clearly play an advanced role in the game but are not rewarded the same. It has been rumored on many occasions that British-Jamaican Menswear designer Martine Rose would be placed as Creative Director for several brands after a successful collaboration with Supreme and dropping one of the hottest sneaker designs of Summer 2023 with Nike. Her success has sparked a larger conversation: who gets placed as Creative Director? The majority of them are white men.
Gen Z recognizes the value of accountability, watering the seeds of those who inspire the culture. That does not mean doing or wearing what’s trending; the real trailblazers are the ones acting on personal interest, not for attraction. It is an act of rebellion in itself that Gen Z has forged a new popular narrative. You can be a conscious consumer and creator without going against your moral compass. It is all about intention. We acknowledge those who have played a foundational part in shifting the culture, including underrepresented communities that continue to set trends: those who deserve their flowers for the seeds they are planting, even in the face of adversary.
Midnight Runway Fashion Show+Afterparty LDN S6: Urban Jungle is happening at Brixton Jamm on April 11th at 11pm-til Late. 18+ Required. Get Your Tickets in Advanced
Find the version for socials here: “Resilience of the Urban Jungle” by Maria Isabel Castillo
